Tim's Favorite $5,000 Watches - The Best Luxury Watches From Longines, Tudor, Oris and More

$5,000 watches represent a sweet spot in the market. It's enough money to get a watch with a quality brand name, differentiated features, design, and even meaningful movement specifications. But $5,000 is also a price point where middle class, blue collar, and even wealthy watch collectors who seek value can find acceptable options without breaking a budget. Tonight's show features watches from Tudor, Longines, Oris, and more at or below the $5,000 price point; these are the best $5,000 watches in 2024.

The Tudor Black Bay 58 is a growing family of vintage inspired dive watches that take liberties with the details. Tudor's Black Bay Fifty Eight Ag925 M79010SG offers watch buyers a rare opportunity to own a modern wristwatch in sterling silver. Common in the pocket watch era but scarce in the wristwatch era, sterling silver is an accessible precious metal that yields pleasing patina with time. Tudor combined the sterling with a dial and bezel of taupe color; the result is a unique offering among luxury dive watches. With a retail price of $4,650, the Black Bay Fifty Eight Ag925 offers precious metal cachet for stainless steel money.

The Black Bay Fifty Eight Bronze M79012M debuted in 2021; it was and remains a Tudor boutique exclusive offering. At 39mm in bronze, this Black Bay is far more manageable to wear than the massive 43mm Black Bay Bronze that preceded it. With a Tudor automatic caliber MT5400, the Black Bay Fifty Eight Bronze retains key features of the full size original including a COSC chronometer certification, antimagnetic silicon hairspring, robust shock resistance, and 70 hours of power reserve. A rivet-style bronze bracelet accompanies the Black Bay 58 Bronze, and a fabric strap is included for the retail price of $4,875.

Longines is one of the world's largest and most influential watch brands. However, it often flies below the radar in a Swatch group dominated by Omega at the high end and Tissot at the entry level. The 2024 Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve is a breakout product for the middle brand of Swatch's empire. The 38mm Longines Central Power Reserve recalls a similar model from 1959. With a power reserve indicator comprised of two discs on the dial, the Central Power Reserve adds dynamism to the traditionally staid power reserve indicator complication. 2024 is the 70th anniversary of the Longines Conquest line, and the Central Power Reserve includes substantial vintage cues including the power reserve, date at twelve o'clock, tapered lugs with 19mm spacing, and a "glass box" sapphire crystal designed to evoke a vintage plexiglas. The core reference appears to be the silver dial L1.648.4.78.2, but the black dial with rose gold indices (L1.648.4.62.2 ) and black dial with silver indices (L1.648.4.62.2 ) are offered for the same $3,800 retail price.

Oris often receives recognition for its high-value sports watches, but the 2024 Propilot X Calibre 400 Laser (01 400 7778 7150-07 7 20 01TLC) deserves special mention. The 39mm titanium integrated bracelet watch incorporates a new laser-ablated dial that produces a kaleidoscope of colors without PVD, lacquer, paint, or dyes of any kind. The unique laser dial treatment also produces a strong vertical metallic grain that imbues the dial with tension and texture. Oris' well regarding Calibre 400 automatic movement provides 5-days of power reserve, 10-year service intervals, and the basis for Oris' ten year warranty on this model. With a retail price of $5,200 US, the Oris Propilot X Calibre 400 Laser is a fine alternative to AP, Patek, Vacheron, and Lange at a price that would barely buy a deployant clasp from these brands.


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